When is a Horse Not Just a Horse?

When It's a Paso Fino of Course.

When is a horse not just a horse? When it’s a Paso Fino—a step above ordinary equines in the minds of the many lovers of the breed. Puerto Ricans, Colombians, and Peruvians have a profound respect for the lineage of horse they developed from Spanish stock brought to the Americas.

The small, sturdy, smooth-gaited horse with a fine step improved travel over long distances in mountainous terrain. Hacienda owners loved the Paso Fino. The wealthy Latin American landowners preferred its smooth ride when they toured their ranchos. Horse devotees have taken pride in developing the breed’s pedigree over the centuries.

A tour of a Peruvian Paso Fino ranch awakened me to the grace of these horses. My limited exposure to the horse world came from riding ponies at the amusement park as a child and from handicapping winners and losers at the race track as an adult. I admit I never became accustomed to my behind slapping against the saddle when I rode those ponies. If I’d only known about the Paso Fino, my interest in horseback riding might have grown.

What makes the Paso’s gait so special? A natural, evenly-spaced, four-beat lateral gait. And they amble. What’s ambling you ask? It’s faster than a walk and slower than a gallop. When the horse goes through its paces, the raised foot lifts close to the ground, while the other three feet stay firmly planted. Each foot takes a turn in a specific order, eliminating the up-and-down motion. What’s more, the horse can perform this uncommon gait at three speeds: slow, medium, and fast. Amazing, but true! At shows, a rider demonstrates the smoothness of his horse’s gait by placing a cup of water on his flat-brimmed hat (the man’s, not the horse’s) and circles the arena without spilling a drop.

How did I come to be on a tour of a Paso Fino ranch? My wife. She’s a horse lover. We were staying at a hotel in Lima, Peru, a few days before boarding a cruise headed up the Pacific west coast. While looking at brochures in the lobby, I saw one that touted a full day excursion to the ranch, which included an authentic Peruvian barbeque—complete with Pisco Sours and the opportunity to ride a Paso. That was all it took.

The barbeque and Pisco Sours were wonderful. At the end of the meal, our host asked for volunteers to ride the Pasos. My wife, Esther, was the only one to accept the offer, and she did so with excitement. As she entered the arena, a horse handler, dressed in white, helped her into the saddle and started to lead her mount. She leaned forward and spoke to him in Spanish. I don’t know what she said, but he handed her the reins and off she went. Esther rode that horse around the arena like she owned him. Our fellow travelers gave her a standing ovation. Everyone snapped photos. If you look closely at the photo below, you can see the horse smiling. What a day. What a memory.